in the jungle the mighty jungle...

Hasta Luego Cuba and helloooo Ecuador. 5 weeks have gone by like nothing and soon enough, with spanish diploma in hand the time has come for me to leave one of the most enchanting islands. Leaving with mixed feelings, on which I'll come back to in a (hopefully!) round up of Cuba I was quite glad when I stopped off in Panama and was first of all able to understand their spanish with ease and secondly found shops that were actually filled with STUFF. Probably left too much money at the airport, to be honest..

Nevertheless, after another short flight in a half-empty plane, I landed in Quito, Ecuador with no real idea of what might await me. I'm currently writing all this whilst lying in a hammock, in the middle of nowhere jungle in Tena, no electricity, no service, animals and creatures everywhere but I absolutely love it! However, when I stepped outside of the airport in Quito, I was first of all amazed by the cars, which actually looked like they were built in the last 10 years and roads and buildings in a state in which you didn't have to worry they might fall apart at any minute. Soon enough I found myself a taxista, who drove me up to Quito and let me tell you, Ecuador is freaking hilly. Can't remember how many hills and curves we passed (thankfully, after more than a month I was finally secured with a seat belt again) and how green everything was aswell. Absolutely beautiful. 

Quito itself is just as hilly. It seems like there's no even road at all and when seeing a house or cathedral across from you, to actually get to it you might have to descend to the bottom and then start climbing up the other side. The houses looked pretty old and run down and although seeming a bit wealthier than the Cubans on first sight, Ecuador is really poor. Having forgotten the asian features the Ecuadorians have, I was amazed by some of their traditional wear, long black hair and almond shaped eyes. They seemed a lot more open, even content with their lives but still, homeless, drunk off their asses and crawling people in the streets were to be found at every corner. And I definitely got the feeling, everyone was warning me from - Ecuador being dangerous. But I guess that's just how it is and the country itself is beautiful nevertheless (from what I've gathered so far)

After getting set in the hotel for the night and meeting my roommate, we made our way over to her old hostel, and let me tell you, backpacker life in Quito is pretty amazing. The hostels were incredible, great buildings, staff, activities and apparently food and of course you get to meet a lot of like minded travellers. So after our travel group met up, we went to said hostel that had a roof top party and barbecue. A perfect start to a new adventure accompanied with a beautiful nightime view of Quito. I so wish I had more time in Quito, as there would have been so many things to discover. However,  I have to say, I was struggling with the altitude (really bad headache, feeling of sickness) which I hope would have faded over time. But I'm still quite scared what might await me in Peru..

The next morning we made our way into the jungle in Tena. Driving more or less 7h in a public bus, with a scenery as stunning as I've never seen, I had no idea what I set myself up to. I was speechless by the beauty of the hilly terrain, scary roads, waterfalls and ever changing weather, but arriving in the jungle was something else. We're staying with a guy called Delphin (he's a shaman and showed us fascinating plants in the jungle - found some natural nail polish and mosquito repellent) and his family. You're actually in the middle of nowhere, only hearing the sounds of water and insects and other lovely creatures. We slept in some sort of bungalow, everything all out in the open except the mosquito net over the bed, and as I've mentioned before, no electricity. Although a bit scared by the mosquitos at first, I was freaking excited. 

That same day, Rolando, Delphin's son took us on a little hike around the jungle and for the first time in years I wore wellies again! They were necessary due to all the little streams and muddy passages, Inwas just glad not having to get my feet wet. We even got a natural face treatment by Rolando himself with mud he dug out of a stream. Next to that facial and the air here, I have to say my face has never been this soft before (; The day was perfectly rounded off with a delicious dinner and games and marshmallows around the 'campfire'.

The next morning, after a terrifying, middle-of-the-night-toilet-run-in-the-dark, wellies were once again mounted/put on, along with swimsuits and shorts - we were off to find cascades and basically just get ourselves wet. I definitely wasn't ready for what would await me. I think we climbed up rivers and actual waterfalls without harnesses far too dangerous to actually be allowed, but I'm not complaining. Again, I saw some of the most beautiful places nature alone can provide you with and cleansed myself under a body cleasing waterfall. Goals all the way. A fantastic day filled with quite exhausting activities, learning about healing plants, seeing bugs the size of my hand, probably had creatures crawling all over me without being actually aware of it, but who caaares? Definitely not me anymore. I've come to love the jungle.

All these experiences aren't by far all that left a mark, but for me there's just no possible way to put all of this into words, but at least I got some of it jotted down, still laying in the hammock with the sun light slowly fading, attracting more and more mosquitos, yay. Soon it'll be time for another bonfire and marshmallows night accompanied by the werewolfs and villagers game and after two more nights here, we're off to baños and hopefully the end of the world swing. I can't wait!

(... and no, the lion doesn't sleep here tonight)

Edit: Last day in the jungle and today we visited a local school, supported by Delphin's family as a good education system (due to the lack of money) especially in the jungle doesn't really exist. Children from 5-15 visit the same class and were taught by Delphins wife Stella. Our guide told us to bring pens and papers and the excitement on the kids faces when they got them can't even be put into words. We then had the chance to play with them, football outside but that's not something I'd do to myself of course, so I stayed inside with the younger kids and whipped out my cameras. They were loving it, taking their first selfies and just smiling the whole time. A beautiful experience. (:

We left the kids and made our way over to some sort of laguna by the river and it was great and as soon as my video is finished you'll be able to see the greatness too! That's it for now, just arrived in Baños and the adventure continues!

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Hasta que se seque el malecon

Ay ay ay, and the trouble in Cuba continues. Week 4 has begun and Joelle, who's always awfully prepared and informed came to realise that she was in desperate need of extending her visa. And of course, I always end up doing stuff like that at the last minute. So in school, off I trott to Sergio, the man in charge, where I first of all finallly finalized my trip to Trinidad and Cienfuegos for the coming weekend (YES!) and arranged my first Salsa lessons, don't really know what I set myself up for... And at last I asked him about the visa. He gave me a list of things that had to be done and so I made my way over to the immigration office, luckily closeby to where I'm staying. However, the first thing I saw when I arrived were people sitting and standing everywhere in some sort of waiting area. By then I haven't really gotten the cuban system down yet. But apparently whenever you approach a queue, that to me, never actually looks like one, your supposed to ask who the last person in the queue is - ¿la ultima persona?

Didn't really get that part but at last, some Italian guy who'd been living in Cuba for the last 15 years had mercy on me and explained what I had to do and where to wait. I soon learned that some of the people there had been waiting for more than 6 hours to receive their visum. Don't they have anything better to do then sit around waiting? It doesn't seem so.

After doing exactly that for more than an hour the Italian guy started asking if I'm sure I brought all the necessary papers. The Joelle that I am of course oversaw the last paragraph on the paper Sergio handed me, which stated that BEFORE going to the office, I'd have to stop off at the bank to get some sort of stamp and that's where I trotted to next. 

Having learned from my mistakes, this time I was able to ask, ¿quién es ultima? and even got a response! So here I am, sitting and waiting, again, having no clue when I'll actually get my visa. I guess I'll be waiting, 'hasta que se seque el malecon' - quote from a song you here eeeverywhere in Cuba!

(I did finally get it, but in total I probably waited for 10h. Oh, and the salsa lesson couldn't really be described as a 'lesson'. It was basically me, being spun around in circles, not really knowing what I was doing with my feet. But I most definitely enjoyed it.)

Seeing as I don't have much to do, I'll simply write what else I've been up to. My roommate and fellow swiss traveler left last week so the weekend I was to spend all by myself. It was the first time since arriving three weeks ago that I was actually completely by myself. I have to say, it was a bit sad and frightening but in the end I very much enjoyed some time for myself. I was able to do whatever I wanted, so I headed into Havana, explored some unknown districts, tried to find food (as you do here in Cuba) and of course captured day to day life of cubans. It was quite strange, since, as I said before, the people here mainly view me as a cuban. I get to pay less in taxi collectivos, but in return, when I walk around the streets by myself with a camera, the looks I get are something else. I guess, they just can't seem to place me in a specific category, which just leaves them staring.

Cubans in general are a culture for themselves. They walk around with pride and arrogance and something, that almost makes them appear bored, whatever they're doing. Especially the women, walking their butt swining walks and heads held high give off completely different vibes than what I'm used to from the Caribbean. As an outsider it might of course seem different than if you'd live here. I did notice that when you get to know them, they open up and take you in with open arms, but to get to that point takes a lot more time than anywhere else in the caribbean. That is just Havana for all I know, apparently towards the south, Santiago de Cuba, Baracoa, the mentality, the people are completely different to the capitol. I definitely wonder what Trinidad and Cienfuegos will be like!

Next to taking the obligatory portraits of old men, dogs and children playing in the streets, I soon found myself at the Malecon, gazing over the 'skyline' of Havana, sunbathing and relaxing, away from the stress and hassle of the big city.

The following day I discovered that I wasn't alone anymore and got to meet Lysiane, my new roommate for the next couple of weeks. I showed her around Havana and we even food, can you imagine (; It was absolutely lovely, but I have to say, I'm looking forward to getting out of the city. Whether it being solely to visit other villages in Cuba or finally leaving for Ecuador. 

Can't wait to see what my next adventure will look like.

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rolling stones

The highlight of this week: most definitely the Stones coming into town and throwing a mindblowing concert. For me, they pretty much trumped Obama.

A couple of weeks ago I heard of this rumour that the Rolling Stones would be playing in Cuba. I didn't really think much of it at first, but it turned out they would be performing for free and after their stay in Havana, donate all their instruments and I think even equipment to the Cubans. I can't really say I know a lot about the Stones and their music, but really, that was just no excuse for me not to go.

Luckily, my language school was able to provide us with transportation, without any it would have been a real nightmare, but it ended up being one anyway. I've never seen so many people in one place, ever!They were from all over the world. Locals, tourists and even latinos flying into Havana specifically for the Stones. From 5 y/o's to real oldies, pretty princesses to punks; every imaginable human being was to be found and it was absolutely fantastic.

Even the weather played along. Although the whole day had been a bit downcast, of course the sky openend up half an hour before the concert, revealing a beautiful sunset. 

The crowd was booming, completely hyped for what was about to go down on stage. It was quite funny, everybody mistaking me for a cubana and trying to talk spanish with me and due to the huge amount of people, there was no possible way of contacting or even finding each other if we got lost. But that's not relevant, what I enjoyed most whilst waiting for the concert to begin was people watching. It's always delighting to do so in different countries and crowded places, but on the huge field where the concert took place, people watching reached a whole new level. I wasn't able to take in everything fast enough. There some youngsters with combs stuck in their afros, next to them the rastafaris, people patriotically waving their flags from argentina, cuba to russia and behind me people dancing salsa, smoking cigars and drinking their rum. The character's I came across that evening can't even be described. Hardcore Stones fans, Asian tourists of course with giant DSLR's in hand, locals in the crowds but also on the roofs of the surrounding houses cheering and drinking their heads off, and of course the overly excited, drunk and crazy ones. And I was just sitting there taking it all in.

At 8:30 the concert finally started and in Cuba, I at last experienced something tk start without delay. That was hard to believe, next to the fact that this time it wasn't me that got a beer cup thrown at my head, but the lucky person standing next to me. Tough Luck. (;

The Stones absolutely rocked the stage and the crowd loved it. I, in particular, enjoyed watching the drummer. While the rest of the band, admittedly probably having entered their 60s, were jumping around on stage like true rockstars, the old, grey guy playing the drums (shame on me for not remembering his name) sat their, with an almost bored look on his face but absolutely smashed it. In fact, they all did. Mick Jagger and his moves (got the moves like Jagger - for his age SO impressive!) were of course legendary, the bassists solos incredible and the overall performance mindblowing.

It was definitely an unforgettable event of which I migbt be able to tell my grand children about (; Although, I have to admit I was quite disturbed by how many outfit changes Jagger had on stage. Seemed to me like he had packes more clothes for 2.5h than I had for the next 5 months. Well, I guess you can't have everything when you're not a legend like Jagger.

I CAN'T GET NO, SATISFACTION!

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havana craziness!

(spot the dogs)

Half time! Well actually, as I'm writing this I only have two more weeks left here. A bit sad, but to be honest I'm getting kind of bored. Of all the German people at my school and being stuck in one place for most of the time, but that's soon about to change.

I have to say, this week was actually quite intense. Starting off with the first storm and rain I was surprisingly glad to be able to walk through Havana without breaking a sweat in somewhat milder temperatures. Next to that, Obama flew into Havana for a couple of days, creating quite some craze (A guy from school arriving on the same day and a couple minutes before Obama had to first land 2h outside of Havana before being allowed to finally land at the appointed place). Even the locals complained. Although, being delighted and hopeful at what Obama's visit might hold for Cuba, some were afraid of the consequences of something happening to Obama, annoyed by all the blocked roads and the sort of farce made up for him, not really allowing him to see the 'real' Cuba as stated in all the news papers. I actually got myself one of those, the news paper of one of the most important days for the cubans - the first time since 1928 that a US president set foot on Cuba. What a great thing to be a part of.

Additionally, the Rolling Stones are doing a free concert in Havana for everyone to see. You can't even imagine how many people are here. The hotels and casa's are bursting at their seams. First due to the journalists and people wanting to see Obama and now because of Easter holiday and a huuuge free concert. Not sure what to expect tomorrow but knowing the cubans by now, it'll be a huge fiesta.

I actually went to see a Ballet, at the gran teatro de la habana, alicia alfonso and it was amazing. Don't really know what else to say to that.

Kary, my spanish teacher, is still a cheeky little thing, taking us around town without telling her boss and trying to hammer every spanish tiempo into our brains. At least I can now say what my plans for the following weeks are. With Kary and one of her Alumnis (who drove us around for some business negociations?!) we qued 30 minutes for the oh so famous Coppelia's ice cream. Except the amount of ice cream you get for 25 cent it wasn't that special. I swear, ice cream and sandwiches are some sort of national dish here. It's all you can find and the Cubans seem to inhale it in a matter of seconds. My diet's definitely going downhill. 

The day before yesterday, some friends and I once again explored La Habana. We came across this beautiful, african and slave inspired artsy corner where some cuban guys who clearly knew what they were talking about showed us around. And howelse could it be, the blonde in our group soon found herself a date for the night, that would take her salsa dancing - something at that moment I hadn't planned doing and especially not without having taken any classes yet! 

I could explore Havana every single day and discover something new at each corner. Here a little barber shop squeezed into a room smaller than the bathroom at home or there a new little bar that offers even cheaper mojitos than I ever thought possible. Alcohol here is swallowed like water. Lovely.

In the evening we actually ended up eating at a horrible, touristy place and I only got to eat side-dish rice. Again, my healthy diet's going downhill. However, after that ever so filling dinner we made our way over to the Hotel Florida to find the blonde friend and her new friend. Soon enough, after having paid a stupid entrance fee, we found ourselves in a huge room, surrounded by spinning couples dancing like crazy. It was pretty damn fantastic. Somehow, I ended up dancing as well but next to all the pro's and locals I did feel like a rhythmless human being with two left feet. It was definitely fun, but I got to start working on my moves (;

That's it for now. Actually planned on going to Cienfuegos and Trinidad for the weekend, but all the bus tickets are gone and I ended up staying here. A bummer but hopefully I'll go there next week and after that I'll hopefully meet up with some friends from Switzerland!

Going to find some food now and then heading off the Fabrica del Arte, apparently a really cool place at the Malecon.

Besos,

Joelle

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cowboys, countryside and jesus

Currently, I am sat in a guagua (pronounced as huahua I think..)' a bus that will hopefully take us to Viñales, at least that's what it said on the cardboard stuck to the windshield. In Cuba you never know though.

Week two is coming to an end but it feels like I've been here forever and can't believe I have another 3 weeks ahead of me. I feel like I'm spending my money at every open opportunity and am quite afraid of how I'll manage the next four and some months. But oh well, I shouldn't really worry about money, right?

This week I got assigned a new profesora, Kary, a typical caribbean, fierce and proud mamey, who reminds me a bit of my Granny Iris from Grenada. She's great, although a bit cheeky and I definitely learned ny doing. Instead of sitting in a little room, she took me out to explore the streets, name different colours, showed me the animals and we even visited the local food market where we completed her weekly shopping (of course I was the one to carry her bags). Although she likes to talk a lot - mostly about family and a swiss rich guy she wants to marry - she's lovely. And since she couldn't pronounce my name at first she simply gave a new one: sol, "because you shine like the sun" and she even tried to hook me up with a cuban guy she knew. In fact she tries to do that with every guy we pass. ¿Tu no tienes novio en suiza, sol? Ayyy, ¿por que? That's my Kary, Kary, Kary.

I might not have pointed it out yet, but Internet here in Cuba is close to non-existent. However, whenever you spot a park with a TON of locals and couple of tourists with their faces glued to their devices, you know the time has finally come to log yourself into the Internet and somehow keep track on what is happening outside of Cuba. If you look around searchingly, maybe even with some cash in your hand you'll soon be getting discreet but clear hand signs by sketchy looking cubanos - we call them the tarjeta (Internet card) dealers. It's some type of black market that allows you to access the internet a lot cheapee than if you'd buy them elsewhere. I haven't really figured out yet how they managed to come up with those cards but to be honest, I probably don't even want to know...

VIÑALES

Compared to Havana, the capitol of Cuba, Viñales really's just a long road with houses (that all seem to be casa particulars!) along it. It's tiny, but awfully cute with the church in the town center on which at all hours you can find this one, stereo-typical Cuban guy smoking his cigar and who if need be starts shooing away stray dogs (they're everywhere) in a not so friendly way. The true countryside of Cuba.

I must say though, that this little village was practically bursting with tourists. When we arrived and tried to leave the bus, the local people trying to sell their available rooms screaming 'I have casa, need casa? Lovely two bedroom apartment!" nearly made this task impossible. We had a pre-booked casa, but as it is in Cuba, this guy failed to pick us up and we somehow had to find it ourselves, which we sure did. But that was not all that could be found in there. Of course, I first of all had to rid myself of all the mosquitos, found one or two cockroaches and on the last day was attacked by ants whilst enjoying Jesús' lovely home cooked meal (probably the best and most I ate so far!) Yes, it was quite an interesting experience, but I'm not complaining. As i said before, living with the locals allows you to not only improve your Spanish but actually experience cuban life at its best. Overly romantic spanish ballads playing from the living room, white rocking chairs in front of the house, the infamous cigar smoking men and women (!) and since it's the countryside, horses and carriages passing by every so often carrying cubans with hats, giving them the appearance of a cowboy.

Here, everybody helps each other in any way possible. When we said we'd wanted to take a tour Jesús immediately had a relative who could help us with that. Oh, and when we aplanned to hire a bike for the day, the next morning some other guy suddenly appeared in front of the house without us so much a having to step outside of our room. They really do everything to make the best deals.

The bike tour we did, with ourselves as guides was probably the best thing we did. Although, looking back a nightmare trying to navigate in the heat but the valle, farm land and thr famous Viñales mountains were sights definitely worth it. We even climbed a hill, that left me a sweaty mess but was definitely worth the view again and of course the descent (; Might have to get myself a bike here in Havana for the last couple of weeks left.

Now, we're heading back home, of course after taking a picture of Jesús in front of his house (by his request so I could show everyone) and I can't wait to finally lie in a more comfortable bed in which I at least don't have to feel every single spring poking into my back. I'm so spoiled.

¡Hasta Luego!

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